It is almost Christmas. The tree is up and colourful and I play ridiculous generic Christmas music of the type you are likely to hear on the escalator in department stores. The up-side of living in Europe around Christmas is being able to buy pannetone everywhere, and we do. I started a stock of beautiful boxes of this divine Italian cake in our office: Some are 500g per piece, others range from 950g to a kilo: they are for friends and relatives, and for work and/or project groups we have been forced to participate in in the last year. Most are elegantly wrapped in hand-made pastoral paper, sealed with a large bow; the label of some Italian family, living in a remote village and advertising that the 110-year-old grandmother is still involved in the leavening stages of their pannetone, is affixed. My husband and I love the stuff. We have gotten through half of the stocks already, and the piece-de-resistance was opened this morning, Sunday the 18th of December, 2011.
We were still in bed when, like expectant children, we unwrapped our delectable morsel (happy that it was only 500 grams, which meant we could eat it all in one go without feeling too guilty). It was my husband’s favourite kind: con uvette e frutti secchi – raisins and dried, candied fruit. Our children were invited to join in, but the fools do not eat raisins, so I made coffee, and there we sat in bed, like two little children absolutely transfixed with the imminent prospect of this delectable pre-Christmas treat.
After the coffee and most of the gorgeously soft pannetone (we wisely left a slither for later) there was time to inspect the little pastoral label, with all the family members in a sepia photograph. Text in Italian and English, all about ‘il corte di Ludovico il Moro’ and the Milanese tradition of ‘pandolce’ (sweet bread) and the tale of honey, natural leaven and the candied fruits, we then stumbled upon a questionnaire at the end: a full 4 pages are dedicated to the degree of enjoyment of the consumer. Did we have a satisfactory visual, taste, tactile and olfactory sensation while eating this pannetone? Were the colour and the structure excellent, or not? Was the taste intense and complex, was the aroma persistent? To add to our relish, each set of questions was accompanied by a rather old-fashioned and unquestionably elegant etching, picturing nose, eye, mouth and hand. And, if you thought that it would all not lead to anything, the ultimate set of questions, of course, regarded one’s “overall emotional experience” and made an inquiry as to factors of ‘pleasantness’, ‘satisfaction’, ‘temptation’ and ‘elegance’.
We were overjoyed with the little questionnaire. Finally there was confirmation as to what we were expected to experience while sitting in bed, eating pannetone. Finally there was a realistic anticipation as to the highest sensational ideals whilst consuming this godly food. Finally, we had met, face to sepia face, the makers, who had the same objective in mind as did we, when eating pannetone. With their little questionnaire, they were looking straight into our souls. Yes, we are fairly uncomplicated people when it comes to Pannetone, a good Italian bean, and a spot of prosecco on a random Sunday, somewhere near Christmas, with or without pyjamas. May life forever be so simple and so overall emotionally gratifying as the Italians meant it to be.
Buon natale a tutti!
Loison Pasticceri Dal 1938 www.loison.com


